list #20: oxford cafes

(Interior of the Jericho Cafe, taken Aug. 2009)

I’ve been thinking a lot about Oxford lately (really, when do I not?), as I’ve reread some journals from 2007-08. Most of my journal entries include place-names in their headings – I like to note where I am when I’m writing, particularly if (as so often in Oxford) it was somewhere inspiring.

Many of those journal entries were written at Oxford cafes – my favourite haunts for drinking tea and scribbling. There’s a pub crawl poster available at Blackwells Bookshop in Oxford, and I always wished I could design a “cafe crawl” poster and colour it in as I drank tea and ate scones in different cafes. So here, in no particular order except the first few, are the places I’d put on my cafe crawl poster:

1. Queens Lane Coffee House – reputedly the oldest cafe in Oxford, though it vies for that title with the Grand Cafe, across the street. Anyway, their scones are always warm; their tea is delicious and so is their hot cocoa; and it was a perfect halfway stop between North Oxford and Cowley (my two homes), if I needed it. And they hung snowflakes made of blue lights in the windows at Christmas.

2. The Jericho Cafe. This place is heaven – wood floors, red-and-gold walls, cozy tables, homemade flapjacks (a sweet oaty cake) with berries in them. I’ve spent many an afternoon here, with Jacque or Moose or just by myself, writing and drinking tea, and watching the world go by out the plate-glass windows. It’s on Walton Street in the heart of Jericho, in northwest Oxford just a step from the ACU houses.

3. On the Hoof, home of the best sandwiches I’ve EVER had. The Tom’s Le Club is my fave – Cajun spicy chicken, cheese, tomato and bacon – and the Sexy Brazilian, chicken tikka masala with cheese and tomato, is also famous. (My friend Cole even has his own namesake sandwich now.) They also serve pastries and breakfast in the morning, and tea and hot drinks any time of day. The staff are lovely and the food is delicious – and it’s just down the road from ACU-Oxford.

4. G&D’s. This is a local Oxford chain – there are three locations now, and each is quirky and charming in its own right. They all feature stuffed cows (and cow figurines, and various cow items), homemade ice cream in both classic and unusual flavours, and a closing time of midnight – so nice if you’re feeling restless in the evening and don’t want to go to the pub. (Their bagel sandwiches and pizza bagels are also supremely delicious.)

5. Gastro’s Deli – another Jericho treasure. It’s tiny, but you can sit out on the sidewalk and people-watch, and their fresh apple cake is delectable, as is a cup of hot soup if it’s chilly out.

6. Chez Gaston – on North Parade Avenue, literally a block from the ACU houses. They serve fresh mint tea in tall glasses stuffed with real mint leaves, and their crepes are magnifique. Plus, if you sit there long enough you’re sure to hear a Frank Sinatra song.

7. Caffe Nero is the Blackwells bookshop cafe, and there’s also a freestanding one on the High Street. I love to grab a few books from the stacks in Blackwells, then go to the cafe and read for a while. It’s also one of just a few places where you can find chai lattes in the UK.

8. Cafe Puccino, at the entrance to the Covered Market. Some of the best tomato soup I’ve ever had, served with warm ciabatta bread, and the option of sitting inside or out.

9. Brothers in the Covered Market has wonderful sandwiches and delicious hot cocoa. My friend Nicky and I nearly always met up here when we met for lunch. It’s warm and cozy on a cold winter day.

10. Starbucks in Headington, in far east Oxford, became one of my haunts because my Lizzie worked there. I’d rather support a local independent with my money, frankly, but I’d go see Lizzie sometimes to make her smile, and sit in a soft green chair and drink a peppermint hot chocolate.

11. The News Cafe on Ship Street is quiet and pleasant – its walls are hung with black-and-white photographs, and their scones are good.

12. The Nosebag on St. Michael’s Street has wonderful soup, and it’s up a flight of stairs, so you feel all cozy tucked under the eaves.

13. QI is short for Quite Interesting, and it used to be a combo bookshop/cafe. They’ve closed the bookshop part, sadly, but you can still get lovely ginger or lemon cake.

14. Combibos Coffee is on Gloucester Green, where they have the open market – which makes it the perfect spot for people-watching. And, oh blessed day, they serve chai.

(Here’s a very intellectual G&D’s cow. Isn’t he adorable?)

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